Want to get better at board climbing?

Summary

Robin and Alex introduce board climbing as a repeatable way to build strength and power for outdoor climbing. Because board problems remain set, climbers can revisit them and track progress. The hosts highlight benefits for finger and contact strength, shoulders, core tension, pulling power, and footwork.

Warm-up and planning

After a shoulder, finger, and general warm-up, they recommend easing into board climbing on less-steep angles or easier problems before attempting harder climbs. They also encourage deliberate choices about foot placements and hand grips rather than repeatedly readjusting on holds. For example, a climber might plan to catch a hold in an open-hand or half-crimp grip, then commit to that choice.

Body tension and shoulder engagement

Pulling through the feet helps bring the hips toward the wall and keeps the core engaged. If the feet cut—intentionally or unexpectedly—engaged shoulders can help maintain control.

In a slow-motion example on a V7 problem at 40 degrees, Alex catches a large move with her shoulders held in a strong, level “T” position. She stays engaged through the catch, then relaxes when the move allows it. By contrast, a sagging “Y” position can spread the shoulders, reduce body tension, destabilize the catch, and waste force.

On steep boards, fear of slipping can lead climbers to over-pull, which may pull their feet off and shock-load their fingers. Rather than staying front-on and hauling with the arms, climbers should drive through their feet and hips, following the wall’s angle. The goal is not to stay tense throughout the climb: engage the shoulders for demanding moves, then relax when possible to conserve energy.

Footwork, grips, and movement

Alex demonstrates these principles on a Kilter Board climb she identifies as “S N Z M Ramen,” graded 7B/V8 at 40 degrees. After a dynamic move to a left-hand side-pull, she flicks her feet to rotate her hips and place her left foot accurately. She then uses a pogo to reach a right-hand crimp, followed by another foot adjustment to settle her hips rather than hanging on her arms.

Alex also explains that a half-crimp, with the thumb engaged when the hold allows, can help stabilize the shoulders. An open-hand drag can be useful for briefly relaxing between harder moves.

Smearing

For a smear to generate force, the hosts recommend placing the foot higher and using as much surface area as possible. A low, wide smear may slide and force the climber to pull harder.

On “Mr Slim,” a V7 problem at 40 degrees, the key final move uses a high left-foot smear. This allows the climber to drive upward with the legs and hips instead of relying mainly on the arm.

Contact strength

Contact strength is the ability to produce force quickly when hitting a hold. Climbers can build it progressively, starting with jumps to large, comfortable holds—with their feet on the floor if needed—and later progressing to smaller edges. They should aim to catch while keeping the shoulders engaged and choose a grip they can control.

Comparing boards

The hosts describe the boards as offering different training emphases:

• Kilter Board: Dynamic moves on more comfortable holds.
• Tension Board: Body tension, precise footwork, and smaller holds.
• MoonBoard: More finger-intensive climbing.

They identify strength, power, and tension as major benefits of board training.

Cooling devices

Near the end, the hosts discuss Apex Cool Labs’ Narwhal cooling devices. They say they use them between hard attempts in hot conditions to cool down and sustain effort.

The video closes by encouraging climbers to try boards without being discouraged by their often tougher grades and to use them as training for outdoor projects.

Presenters and sources

• Presenters: Robin (surname rendered as “Air” in the captions) and Alex
• Channel: ROAP Coaching
• Other sources mentioned: Apex Cool Labs; Huberman Lab; Stanford cooling-glove research; research linked through PubMed and the University of North Dakota repository