Inside the Chinese factories of fast-fashion giant Shein • FRANCE 24 English

Summary

Guangzhou is a major garment-manufacturing hub, where workers can find jobs through street-corner recruiters and start quickly after negotiating a per-piece rate. Founded in 2012, Shein relies on a network of independent workshops rather than company-owned factories. Its on-demand model tests small batches, then quickly reorders popular items, allowing it to offer a wide range of low-cost clothing.

The report says this model can put pressure on suppliers. When an item becomes popular, Shein may place orders with multiple factories, intensifying competition and squeezing margins. Workers are often paid by the piece, sometimes just a few cents per item. Some can earn more than €1,600 a month during busy periods, but this may involve working late into the night.

Shein requires suppliers to limit work to 60 hours a week and provide a day off. However, workers interviewed said they regularly exceed that limit; some reportedly work more than 75 hours, contrary to Chinese labour law.

The report also examines environmental criticism of ultra-fast fashion. A sustainable-fashion advocate argues that low-quality clothes and the volume sold encourage disposability, with responsibility shared between brands and consumers. Shein disputes the criticism, saying its on-demand model reduces overproduction and waste, and that suppliers must comply with local wage and working-hour laws. The report closes with factory workers still sewing late into the night.

Presenters and contributors

• Jan Camenzind Broomby and Eudeline Boishult — France 24 correspondents
• Leong Xang — jobseeker interviewed
• Peter Lynn — clothing producer interviewed
• Nissa Cornish — Redress representative interviewed