Video summary

Making Custom Lead Swimbait Jig Heads (Part 1 of 2 - Designing the Master Mold Box)

Main summary

Key takeaways

Product Review

Product / Project Reviewed

This is not a store-bought product. It’s a DIY tutorial for making custom lead jig heads using:

  • a 3D-printed master mold box
  • high-temp silicone to cast the mold
  • molten lead to pour the jig heads

This is Part 1, focused on designing the “master mold box.”

Key Features / Process (as described)

  • 3D-printed master mold box
    • design in CAD, then print
  • High-temp silicone pour
    • used to create the actual mold
  • Hook placement inside silicone mold
    • “sandwich” concept: hooks sit in the mold cavities
  • Molten lead pour
    • creates the jig head shape
  • Optional later steps mentioned:
    • powder coating / painting swim bait heads
    • using molds to create multiple cavities per pour

What’s Being Designed (the jig head being modeled)

  • The build starts with a simple ned rig concept as the easiest mold style (cylinder around hook).
  • The specific focus is a slightly larger custom swim bait jig head, scaled from a previous design:
    • the hook design is modeled from an actual hook photo
    • based on Mustad 30 size hooks (mentioned)
  • Examples of earlier custom heads made by the creator:
    • “helgermite” head (color matched + clear coat)
    • folded-under crayfish tail head (color matched + painted + clear coated)
    • “flathead 45” head (jig stands bait 45° off bottom)
    • tiny swim bait heads matched to a ~1.5 inch swimbait

Main Pros (implied/explicit)

  • Saves money
    • the creator compares purchased ned rigs: ~$6 for five (≈ $1.20 per jig) and calls them kind of expensive
  • Enables customization not easy to find in stores
    • exact color matching
    • unique jig geometries (e.g., folded tail crayfish, helgermite, 45° stance, custom swim bait size)
  • More control over bait presentation
    • especially angles and sizes (e.g., the 45° flathead concept)

Main Cons / Limitations (mentioned or suggested)

  • Time & process complexity
    • requires CAD + printing + silicone + lead casting
  • Mold alignment risk
    • silicone molds can shift during pouring if you don’t use enough pins, causing seams
    • the creator uses many alignment pins to prevent this
  • Precision considerations
    • CAD includes calibration and centering so hook/bait eyelet positioning is reasonably accurate
    • he also notes some details “won’t matter” much after the lead pour, but still aims to be precise

User Experience / Workflow Notes (how it feels to build)

  • Takes a level photo of the hook using an iPhone level/alignment feature (yellow indicator when level)
  • Uses Fusion 360:
    • inserts hook photo as a canvas
    • calibrates the canvas using a known 1-inch reference
    • draws hook geometry via spline/lines
    • models the hook shank using a pipe-based approach
  • Mold/print design tips:
    • includes draft/chamfer so the silicone releases more easily
    • includes fillets to reduce sharp edges and printing artifacts (e.g., “elephant’s foot” considerations)
  • Print settings are described as straightforward:
    • no special heat concerns for the printed master mold box
    • printed using Simplify3D with simple parameters

Comparisons Mentioned

  • Comparison to store-bought jigs
    • purchased ned rigs: “five of these for like six bucks”
    • motivation is both cost and custom fit/shape
  • Influence/benchmarking
    • learning approach referenced from Elliott at Revamped Outdoors
    • mentions Instagram pictures and expects future YouTube guidance

Numerical / Rating Information Included

  • Purchased jig cost: $6 for five (≈ $1+ per jig)
  • Scaling/dimensions mentioned:
    • swim bait design enlarged by 1.5x
    • keeper wire diameter references: 0.032 (planned) and model sizes like 0.04
    • examples of modeled dimensions:
      • tube/hook shank sizing around 0.42 (modeled slightly larger by about +0.05)
      • eyelet circle uses 1.45
      • sprue/gate sizes include 0.14, 0.07, plus “half inch” related adjustments
    • uses 5 cavities for the jig head mold
  • Mold fill / silicone volume:
    • silicone volume shown as 6.42 cubic inches → converted to about 3.5 oz (“a little over three and a half ounces”)
  • Simplify3D print settings:
    • 0.10 layer height
    • 5 top layers, 3 bottom layers
    • 3 outlines
    • 25% infill
    • “single process” (no special thermal print concerns)

Unique Points Mentioned (comprehensive list)

  1. DIY custom jig heads using 3D-printed master mold box + high-temp silicone + molten lead
  2. Hook/bait geometry modeled in CAD → silicone mold → lead pour
  3. Motivation: store-bought jigs are expensive; DIY saves money
  4. Learned technique from Revamped Outdoors (Elliott)
  5. Earlier custom jig examples:
    • helgermite head (color matched + clear coat)
    • folded crayfish tail head (color matched + painted + clear coated)
    • flathead 45° head (45° off bottom)
    • tiny swimbait heads matched to a 1.5-inch bait
  6. Video focus: designing the master mold box
  7. Promised process: CAD → print → silicone mold pour → lead pour → possible powder coat/paint
  8. Hook photo workflow:
    • draw 1-inch reference on paper
    • use iPhone level alignment (yellow when level)
  9. CAD workflow in Fusion 360:
    • insert and calibrate canvas using 1-inch
    • align/rotate to center the hook shank
    • sketch hook outline using splines/lines
    • create shank using a pipe with measured diameter adjustments
  10. Add bait keeper geometry (wire), then model it into the head area
  11. Jig head cavity planning: - ned rig described as the easiest (box/cylinder) - final design targeted toward a custom swim bait head
  12. Add gate/sprue so lead can be poured
  13. Choose cavity count: 5 cavities
  14. Mold box design: - overall dimensions approximate 5.5 by 2.75 - specified bottom and wall thickness via offsets - uses draft angle/chamfer and fillets for release
  15. Split mold into two halves using mirror
  16. Add many pin holes/alignment pins to prevent shifting and seams
  17. Chamfer pins for easier insertion/alignment
  18. Optional mold labeling via embossed text (e.g., “swim bait size three”)
  19. Simulate silicone mold in CAD using combine/cut operations
  20. Assemble halves in CAD by aligning pins (joint capture)
  21. Check with wireframe to confirm alignment (pins/baits line up)
  22. Calculate silicone volume for pouring amount (6.42 cubic inches → ~3.5 oz)
  23. Export mold box as STL, then slice/print
  24. Simplify3D print settings include layer height/top/bottom layers/outlines/infill
  25. Save g-code and send to printer

Speaker/Contributor Views

  • Primary speaker: “Steve” (creator of the method and design decisions)
  • Referenced contributor: Elliott (Revamped Outdoors)
    • inspiration from Instagram examples
    • expected follow-up guidance via future YouTube content

Concise Verdict / Recommendation

If you want custom jig heads (shapes, angles, sizes, and exact color matching) and you’re willing to do a CAD + 3D printing + casting workflow, this approach is presented as cost-saving and highly customizable.

The tradeoff is complexity and the need for careful alignment, addressed through many pins and draft chamfers. For beginners who just want readily available jig heads, it’s likely too involved, but for DIY anglers it appears practical and expandable for repeated production.

Original video