Video summary

DIY - The MOST DURABLE non-metal SOFT plastic lure MOLD...EVER!

Main summary

Key takeaways

Product Review

Product reviewed

A DIY, “most durable” non-metal soft-plastic lure mold made from plaster + cement, using non-hardening modeling clay as clay inserts. It’s designed for casting 3.5 in ripper swimbaits (and is claimed to work for other full-body soft plastics too).

Key features / what it’s made for

  • Soft-plastic lure molding (swimbaits) using an injector/spout system
  • A two-part mold with double cavities to cast two swimbaits at once
  • A concrete/cement-based mold body intended to be more durable than softer mold materials
  • Low-leak framework sealing using:
    • Vaseline
    • A taped Lego framework
  • Moisture protection + improved finish
    • Uses a concrete sealer (“511 impregnator sealer”) to prevent moisture ingress
    • Uses a thin Vaseline coat in areas where plastic contacts the mold to aid release and improve shininess
  • Cement vs. plaster rationale
    • Cement is used for the durable body
    • Plaster is used first because cement sets too slowly, causing the soft plastic to float if cement is used from the start

Main process / user experience (as described)

  1. Build the mold framework

    • Use Lego pieces to control shape and size.

  2. First mold half (plaster of Paris layer)

    • Seal Lego cracks with Vaseline so water doesn’t leak.
    • Mix plaster of Paris to the desired viscosity
      • Notes about ~5 minutes working time before it sets.
    • Position the swimbait halfway into the plaster to create the first impression.
    • Drill/create lock-in holes for alignment between mold halves.
    • Create a pour spout area using non-hardening modeling clay.

  3. Second mold half (cement)

    • Reapply Vaseline to prevent sticking and to stop cement from entering voids.
    • Use careful technique to avoid damaging/offsetting the swimbait impression—go slowly around the tail.
    • Cement has a long working time (you can mix longer; if short, add more cement).
    • Use vibration/bumping to release air bubbles and improve fill.

  4. Cure, separate, and trim

    • After curing, remove Lego/tape and separate the mold halves.
    • Grind/trim small clearance issues so the injector fits (example: adjust around a lip).
    • Cure/dry for about 1.5–2 days before final sealing.

  5. Finishing

    • Apply solvent-based concrete sealer in two thin coats
      • Let ~1 hour between coats
    • Apply a thin Vaseline release coat inside contact areas.

  6. Injection/casting outcome

    • Injected soft plastics are claimed to come out silky smooth.
    • The first batch from the new mold is shown as looking good (still slightly wet but properly formed).

Pros mentioned

  • High durability: positioned as “most durable” for non-metal soft plastic lure molds
  • Works effectively for soft plastics:
    • Swimbait cavities hold shape well
    • Casting results look smooth
  • Cement provides long working time
    • Easier to adjust during mixing
    • Less likely to waste mix once started vs. plaster
  • Good release and finish using Vaseline + sealer
    • Better mold release
    • Baits come out shinier and smoother
  • Modular design
    • Lego framework allows different sizes/angles
  • Scales to multiple baits
    • Example build casts two swimbaits at once

Cons / issues mentioned

  • Not perfect out of the box
    • Requires grinding/smoothing where plaster creeps or where alignment/edges aren’t clean
  • Time- and step-intensive setup
    • Multiple layers (plaster then cement twice)
    • Dry/cure time
    • Final sealing and Vaseline prep steps
  • Potential fitting issues
    • Injector hole may be small and need grinding
  • Moisture risk
    • Mold must be sealed since moisture makes concrete/cement brittle

Comparisons made

  • Plaster-first vs. starting directly with cement
    • The creator tried many alternatives (including methods without plaster) and states this plaster→cement approach is the only process that makes the material workable for soft plastics.
    • Specific failure mode: starting with cement fails because the lure floats while cement sets too slowly.

Unique points mentioned (distinct claims/steps/outcomes)

  1. Build a mold for 3.5 in ripper swimbaits
  2. Claims a “most durable non-metal” approach
  3. Plaster→cement is the only workable process found for soft plastics after many attempts
  4. Use plaster of Paris first layer to hold the lure in place
  5. Use Lego pieces for a configurable framework
  6. Use duct tape to seal the mold bottom
  7. Use Vaseline to seal cracks/voids so plaster water doesn’t leak
  8. Plaster has ~5 minutes working time
  9. Mix plaster to be flowing, not watery and not too thick
  10. Create a pour spout area designed for later injection
  11. Set the swimbait halfway into plaster (not fully embedded)
  12. Remove plaster creep via grinding/smoothing
  13. Drill locking holes so halves align and clamp together
  14. Build pour spout using non-hardening modeling clay
  15. Use LevelQu RS cement powder (powder, not liquid casting material)
  16. Cement-only start fails because lure would float and cement sets too slowly
  17. Cement has long working time (add more if you’re short)
  18. Pour cement carefully: - Fill crevices/divots first to avoid air pockets - Move slowly around the tail so the impression isn’t pulled down
  19. Leave the bait embedded during cement pours to maintain a tight fit
  20. Pour two cement layers, waiting ~4 hours between layers
  21. Separation can be difficult but may be fixed with effort and Vaseline
  22. Remove modeling clay after the first cement layer/half is built
  23. Adjust injector fit by grinding a small lip
  24. Final dry/cure lasts ~1.5–2 days before sealing
  25. Use 511 impregnator sealer to prevent moisture damage (solvent-based)
  26. Apply two sealer coats with ~1 hour between coats
  27. Apply a thin Vaseline release coat where plastic contacts
  28. Injected soft plastic comes out silky smooth
  29. Claimed usable beyond swimbaits—other full-body soft plastics (e.g., crabs, worms)
  30. Includes real fishing footage showing lures catching fish (no specific catch-count details beyond demonstrating success)

Ratings / numerical scores

  • No formal star rating or similar score is provided.
  • Time estimates mentioned:
    • Plaster working time: ~5 minutes
    • Cement layer cure: ~4 hours
    • Dry/cure: ~1.5–2 days
    • Sealer handling/protection timing: “in less than 2 hours”
    • Between sealer coats: ~1 hour
  • Cost mentioned:
    • Cement bag price: about $30
    • Plaster cost referenced as “$10/“$101” (unclear due to subtitle inaccuracy), generally described as low-cost store plaster

Overall verdict / recommendation

If you want a very durable DIY mold for soft plastic lure injection, this approach—plaster first to prevent floating, then cement for durability, and sealing to prevent moisture—is presented as reliable. However, it’s labor- and time-intensive and may require grinding/tweaking for smoothness and proper fit.

Speaker views / contributions

  • Single main speaker (creator): provides the full method, materials, troubleshooting, and a demonstration of the fishing results.

Original video