Do Copper Peptides Really Work? Dermatologist Reviews the Science

What Copper Peptides Are and What the Evidence Says

• “Copper peptides” in skincare usually refers to GHK-Cu, also called copper tripeptide-1. GHK is a peptide naturally found in the body; copper is an essential trace element involved in biological processes that help maintain collagen and elastin.
• Research has linked GHK-Cu with fibroblast activity, collagen and elastin production, growth factors, wound healing, and antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
• Much of the supporting evidence comes from laboratory research and animal studies, so it does not necessarily predict what a topical product will do for people.
• Some human studies of topical GHK-Cu, often lasting around 12 weeks, report improvements in skin firmness, elasticity, wrinkle depth, and wound healing after dermatological procedures. However, the evidence is limited and short-term. Some studies are manufacturer-sponsored or test formulas containing multiple ingredients, making it hard to isolate the peptide’s contribution.
• Dr. Dray considers copper peptides more evidence-supported than some heavily hyped skincare ingredients, but stresses that expectations should remain realistic. She also cautions that reliable human safety data for injecting GHK-Cu is lacking.

The Serum’s Ingredients

Dr. Dray describes the formula as logically composed, with ingredients that have some scientific rationale:

• Glycerin, polyglutamic acid, and hyaluronic acid: Humectants that improve hydration and can temporarily plump skin, making dehydration-related fine lines look less prominent. Polyglutamic acid can also form a light film that helps reduce moisture loss.
• Ectoin: A moisture-supporting ingredient with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that may help support the skin barrier and reduce irritation. It is not a substitute for sunscreen.
• Allantoin: Soothing and anti-inflammatory; may also gently soften rough, dry skin.
• Centella asiatica and turmeric root extract: Sources of compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties; some research suggests potential wound-healing benefits.
• Lactobacillus ferment: May provide metabolites that support hydration and the skin barrier.
• Palmitoyl tripeptide-5: Has some research suggesting it may stimulate collagen-related pathways and modestly improve the appearance of wrinkles, though the evidence is not strong.
• Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): Sometimes marketed as “Botox in a bottle.” Dr. Dray rejects that comparison: she says a topical peptide is not expected to reach the neuromuscular junction or work like Botox. It may offer some benefit for the appearance of wrinkles, possibly through hydration, but more research is needed.
• Superoxide dismutase (SOD): An antioxidant enzyme intended to help neutralize reactive oxygen species. Its usefulness in a product depends on whether the enzyme remains stable and active in the formula.

How to Use It and What Can Be Combined With It

• The product label recommends applying a coin-sized amount after cleansing. Dr. Dray says a small amount is sufficient, and applying more is unlikely to improve results.
• It can be used morning or evening. Because it is thicker than a water-based toner, apply it after thinner products and before moisturizer.
• General layering guidance is to apply products from thinnest to thickest. Use moisturizer after the serum, and apply sunscreen over it for daytime use.
• It can be used alongside retinoids, retinol, retinaldehyde, and AHAs if the skin tolerates the combination.
• Regarding vitamin C, the theoretical concern is mainly about ascorbic acid potentially being less stable around copper. Dr. Dray says she is not personally concerned about using them together; anyone who prefers to be cautious can use the copper peptide serum in the evening. Vitamin C derivatives are not the same concern.
• Copper peptides are not exfoliating acids and should not cause “purging” or accelerated skin shedding, according to Dr. Dray. She describes those claims as unsupported online scare stories.

Dr. Dray’s Experience and Verdict

• The serum was gifted to her, and she tested it for several weeks. At the time of the review, it cost about $29.99 for one ounce. She considered that reasonable compared with The Ordinary’s copper peptide serum, which she said cost about $32 per ounce.
• She found the texture pleasant but was surprised that it left her face feeling very tight and dry almost immediately. The sensation recurred when she tried it again and went away after she stopped using it. She did not report redness or a rash, and emphasized that her experience does not mean the product will affect everyone the same way.
• Overall, she considered the ingredient list sensible but would not buy this particular serum for herself. She prefers The Ordinary’s copper peptide serum, which she says worked better for her.
• Her broader view is that copper peptides may be a worthwhile optional skincare ingredient, but they are not essential, and results should not be overstated. She reiterates that sunscreen remains important.

Speakers and Sources Featured

• Dr. Dray — the sole speaker and presenter, identified in the video as a board-certified dermatologist.
• Research sources discussed: Laboratory and cell studies, small-animal studies, and limited human clinical studies on GHK-Cu and other ingredients. No individual researchers are named.
• Other sources referenced: Cosmetic chemists’ views on combining copper peptides with vitamin C; Remedy’s product and website; and The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides serum as a comparison. These are discussed by the presenter, not presented as separate speakers.