Summary of "NEVER Buy These Screws (Most Beginners Do)"
Quick verdict
Stop using cheap drywall/Phillips screws for woodworking. Upgrade to Torx (star) drive screws, use the correct thread type, head style, and outdoor coatings for each application. Buy a few specific screw types and the right driver bits and countersink tools — it saves time and prevents stripped or broken screws and ruined projects.
What the video covers (summary)
- Main recommendation: avoid cheap drywall/Phillips screws for woodworking.
- Use Torx for most woodworking and structural needs.
- Use pocket‑hole screws for pocket joints, and use coated or stainless screws for outdoor/wet environments.
- Get a good driver, countersink bit set, the right driver bits, and keep screws organized.
Key drive types — features and comparisons
Phillips head
- Designed in the 1930s for automobile assembly and intentionally “cam out” at a certain torque to prevent overtightening.
- Only 4 points of contact with the driver; prone to stripping/camming out under woodworking torque.
- Still acceptable for low‑torque uses like hinges and drawer slides.
Torx (star) drive
- Six points of contact; geometry pulls the bit into the screw, resisting cam‑out and stripping.
- Better for general woodworking and structural projects (decks, etc.).
- Easier to hold on the bit and to drive smoothly, even with long screws.
Square drive / Robertson
- Four points of contact; commonly used in pocket hole screws.
- More reliable than Phillips for many woodworking uses.
Drywall screws (the “Smitty” example)
- Not wood screws: typically hardened, brittle steel and Phillips head.
- Brittle/hardened steel can shear under lateral pressure (breaks rather than bends).
- Not suitable for outdoor use (rust) or furniture/structural woodworking — meant for drywall only.
- Cheap but false economy; discard old mixed assortments from box stores.
Screw anatomy and selection tips
- Coarse vs fine thread
- Coarse thread: threads spaced further apart; generally better for most softwoods (more gripping power).
- Fine thread: better for hardwood and common in pocket‑hole screws used with hardwoods.
- Self‑tapping tip
- Some screws have a drill‑like notch to start biting into wood; helps driving but doesn’t prevent splitting at board ends.
- Pilot holes
- Drill a pilot hole (a touch smaller than the screw diameter) when near ends or in dense wood to prevent splitting.
- Full thread vs partial thread
- Full thread: threads up to the head.
- Partial thread (shoulder): creates a “slip” area so the screw pulls the top piece down into the bottom piece — useful for joining two boards (pocket holes).
- Head types
- Bugle head: tapered to seat/countersink and compress wood fibers; used when you want the screw flush or slightly below surface.
- Flathead: stops on the surface and may protrude more.
Pocket‑hole joinery
- Do not use general wood screws in pocket‑hole joinery.
- Pocket‑hole screws are specially shaped (shoulder/flat area and specific thread) to avoid blowout and to pull the joint tight.
- Exterior pocket‑hole screws exist (blue‑coated Craig/Craig‑style) for outdoor pocket‑hole applications.
Indoor vs outdoor screws
- Use coated or purpose‑made outdoor screws (Spax, GRK mentioned) for decks, pergolas, and outdoor furniture.
- Use stainless steel screws for environments near water or with high humidity to avoid rust.
- Outdoor pocket‑hole screws are coated (blue versions) specifically for exterior pocket‑hole joinery.
Tools and accessories recommended
- Good drill/driver — use whatever battery ecosystem you have (examples: Milwaukee M12, DeWalt).
- Countersink bit set — a good wood countersink set is highly recommended.
- Multi‑drive bit sets that include Phillips, Torx, and square drive (DeWalt kit highlighted).
- Magnetic trays for organizing screws and bits.
- Small parts organizers for storing different screw sizes/lengths.
Common beginner mistakes
- Buying random, cheap assortments from box stores (false economy).
- Using drywall screws for woodworking.
- Using Phillips for high‑torque applications and wondering why they strip.
- Failing to sort and organize screw types and sizes, which leads to grabbing the wrong screw mid‑project.
Recommended purchases for beginners (four to keep on hand)
- Torx drive screws (various sizes/lengths)
- Pocket‑hole screws (including outdoor‑coated pocket‑hole screws)
- Coated construction screws (Spax/GRK for exterior use)
- Stainless steel screws (for wet/high‑humidity environments)
Demonstrations and user‑experience notes
- Driving a Phillips screw into soft wood cammed out/stripped; a Torx screw drove smoothly, even with long screws under torque.
- Drywall screws sheared when struck with a hammer while other screws bent — showing drywall screws are brittle.
- Advice: keep screws organized and stocked so you don’t grab the wrong (cheap) option in the middle of a project.
Pros and cons (summary)
- Torx
- Pro: resists stripping, holds the bit, smooth driving.
- Con: may not be as ubiquitous in some pre‑made screws; you need Torx bits.
- Phillips
- Pro: common and widely available.
- Con: designed to cam out (bad for woodworking torque), strips more easily.
- Drywall screws
- Pro: very cheap.
- Con: brittle, prone to shear, rust, not for woodworking.
- Pocket‑hole screws
- Pro: designed specifically to clamp pocket joints without blowout.
- Con: specialty item — must buy the right ones.
- Coated/Stainless/Outdoor screws
- Pro: resist rust and corrosion.
- Con: cost more (but worth it for exterior use).
Overall recommendation
Stop using drywall/cheap Phillips screws in woodworking. Move to Torx drive screws for most woodworking and structural needs, use pocket‑hole screws for pocket joints, choose coarse thread for softwoods and fine thread for hardwood/pocket holes, and use properly coated or stainless screws for outdoor or wet environments. Buy a good driver, countersink bit set, keep Torx and specialty screws organized, and discard box‑store mixed assortments.
Unique points emphasized in the video
- Phillips was designed to cam out (a feature for the auto industry).
- Phillips has 4 points of contact; Torx has 6.
- Torx geometry pulls the bit in and allows the screw to stick on the driver.
- Drywall screws are hardened/brittle and will shear under lateral load.
- Drywall screws will rust outdoors.
- Coarse thread generally better for wood; fine thread for hardwood/pocket holes.
- Self‑tapping drill‑like tips help start the screw but don’t prevent splitting at board ends.
- Use pilot holes to prevent splitting near ends.
- Partial thread (shoulder) screws pull two boards together.
- Bugle head seats/countersinks and compress wood fibers better than some flatheads.
- Square/Robertson drive is common on pocket‑hole screws.
- Countersink bits are a must‑have for woodworking.
- Box‑store mixed assortments are tempting but poor value.
- Beginner’s single biggest upgrade: switch from Phillips to Torx.
- Keep screws organized in small parts organizers to know inventory and sizes.
Speakers
- Single presenter (no alternate viewpoints noted).
Category
Product Review
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