Summary of "용박사 파충류 연구소 EP1-5. 레오파드게코 세팅법과 바닥재 추천"

Summary — Leopard gecko enclosure, substrate & setup (Yongchong, “Dragon Doctor”)

Leopard geckos are hardy but active. They need enclosures that allow movement and enrichment — not tiny adoption or storage boxes.
Bigger is better. Minimum recommended single-gecko footprint is 45 cm wide × 30 cm deep, but starting at 60 cm is preferred.
- Two females: 60 cm enclosure is fine.
- One male with up to four females: 90 cm enclosure.
Don’t place an enclosure directly on the floor (especially in winter). Put it on furniture or an elevated, thermally stable surface.

Collecting (plastic) containers
- Pros: very cheap (~10,000 won), lightweight, easy to handle.
- Cons: scratch easily, can melt from top-mounted heat, limited max length (~45 cm), not ideal for adults. Prefer taller versions (Korean-made) over low wide ones (German-made) so the gecko’s body isn’t “crumpled.”
Foamex (PVC foam board)
- Pros: spacious, well insulated, lighter and thinner than wood — good portability even at large sizes; often comes with built-in electrical fittings.
PB (particle board / wooden terrariums)
- Pros: sturdy, thicker, furniture-like stability.
- Note: built-in thermostats have limited life — replace about every 3 years or use an external thermostat if unsure about electronics.

Install a heat source first. For a 2–3 foot enclosure, a ~100 W top heat unit is appropriate.
Always turn power off before installing heat devices.
For bottom-mounted heat pads:
- Heat only half the floor.
- Place the thermostat sensor on the heated side.
Thermostat:
- Mandatory (internal or external) to prevent overheating and fire risk.
- Set the thermostat target to 31°C on the warm side.
Keep lamps (LED/UVB if used for viewing) and furnishings away from heat lamps to avoid burns or fire.

Avoid using plain paper towels/newspaper as a long-term substrate — they can smell strongly and require frequent changes, introducing new smells each time.
Recommended substrate: clumping soil products (referred to as “Jeogok” and “Noksu” or similar brands).
- Benefits:
  - Clumps around feces so you can pick out contaminated pieces with tweezers.
  - Allows digging and natural stimulation.
  - Small soil particles are safe if ingested.
- Use small or medium particle sizes.
- Lay substrate to a depth of about 2–3 cm.
- Initial dust is normal. The substrate crumbles when rinsed, so it’s usable as delivered.

Hides:
- Place a dry hide on the warm side (one dry hide per gecko).
- On the cooler side provide a wet hide for shedding, resting, and egg-laying.
Water:
- Provide a medium water bowl on the cool side.
Wet hide details:
- Commercial plastic hides are fine; larger wet hides can be improvised (e.g., a “Golden Hamster bathroom”).
- Fill wet hide with coco peat (coir) moistened so it sticks slightly when squeezed — moist, not soggy.
- Position the water bowl and wet hide away from drafts or airflow so moisture doesn’t evaporate quickly.

Add rocks, driftwood, and multi-level structures for climbing and resting.
Small pet accessories work well:
- Hamster decks, fuzzy pouches, flat exercise wheels, small multi-level staircases.
Ensure any upper platforms/structures do not touch heat lamps.

Replace built-in thermostats periodically (about every 3 years) or use an external unit.
For beginners on a budget, collecting containers can be a starter option; upgrade as the gecko grows or to improve welfare.
Follow tested methods for healthy, low-stress keeping.

Speaker: Yongchong (용박사), “Dragon Doctor”
Enclosure materials: collecting containers (plastic), Foamex (PVC foam board), PB (particle board)
Heating: ceramic/UV heater, electric heating pad, thermostat (set to 31°C)
Substrate brands/terms mentioned: “Jeogok” and “Noksu” (clumping soil substrates)
Bedding/humidity material: coco peat (coir)
Misc. enrichment items: Golden Hamster bathroom, hamster decks, furry pouches, flat wheels, driftwood, rocks, LED/UVB lamps